XL Magazine - Dec/Jan
by Tom Otley


Walk the walk

Fresh air, great food, the best Guinness, friendly locals, steady exercise. Paradise, huh? That's walking in Ireland. Beautiful scenery and that sense of satisfaction that comes from a day up in the hills with nothing but a map and your own skills to get you to your destination. Did I get lost or what? They say County Kerry has lots of weather but little climate, which means it can rain even in the middle of the summer and did one of the days we were tramping through a forest, despite having been gloriously sunny only minutes before. You can find yourself knee deep in mud before you know it and if you dont plan your route with some care you might find you've tackled more than just a walk in the country. We finally abandoned the route and got a taxi. Shameless cheating, I know, but I was here to enjoy myself.

While it is perfectly feasible just to go with a tent strapped to your back, some might not fancy having to lug the kitchen sink around too. If you don't fancy the hearty approach you can book with a company who can arrange your accommodation and, crucially, ferry your luggage to the next port of call during the day. It saves lots of hassle and they also give you a description of each day's walk. Overnight coaches to Ireland start from around £30 and B&Bs are from £15 a night.

Having some ability with a map and compass, although not essential, would be a help, especially in some of the wilder environs. Waterproof boots are also a must - I used a pair from Meindl which ensured my feet were the only dry bit of me after out excursion into the forest - as is a set of lightweight waterproofs. Buy don't worry about the rain. Just do it!
Where to go: Ireland. It's not as far as you think.

What to do: There's an enormous amount of choice. You can go over there with a rucksack and tent, work out your own route and then get on with it, or you can book through a tour company like Go Ireland who will organise the trip for you. They offer tours of different lengths and can provide a guide who'll walk with you or a guide you can hold in your hand (a book). While you're walking they'll ferry your luggage on to the next bed and breakfast,.

The Alternative:
Go Ireland offer a number of alternative tours to the Ring of Kerry where we went, including highlighted tours where you can 'bag' some of these peaks. Call them on their freephone number 0800 371203 and say XL gave you their number. Could you also apologise for our behaviour at the Puck Fair. They'll know what you're talking about.

How to get there: Plane, train or car. But just in case you think we're poncy freeloaders who don't actuallt investigate these trips, we spent 17 hours on a coach from Victoria to Killarney rather than fly to chack it out. The cost? £39 return, if you've the time, Ireland isn't too expensive to visit.