Toronto Star - June 22, 2006
by Roberta Avery

The Kerry Way takes the path of ancient kings

The germ of the idea that led to the development of Ireland's Kerry Way was born of a tragedy and by a priest's knowledge of ancient routes used by mythical warrior clans, monks and legendary kings.

It was the mid-1970s and mountain rescue team member Sean O Suilleabhain was distraught after the team carried out the body of a Dutch hiker who had got lost in the mountains of Kerry.

O Suilleabhain's passion for the mountains runs deep, but he feared that more tragedies would follow as people discovered Kerry's magical valleys, silvery lakes and heather-covered peaks.

" We had to find a way of keeping people safe," said O Suilleabhain.

A few days after the tragedy, O Suilleabhain attended a history lecture given by Father John Hayes, who spoke of long-forgotten routes criss-crossing the valleys of southwest Ireland.
" I realized there was a spider's web-like network of roads and paths that could be combined to form a route around Kerry," says O Suilleabhain.

Various groups got behind the idea, and the 215-kilometre Kerry Way was born. O Suilleabhain, a mountain guide for 50 years, calls it a "linear heritage site."
O Suilleabhain heads up an activity program for Go Ireland, a tour company specializing in walking trips.

Nathan Kingerlee, a 23-year-old with an incredible knowledge of local history and geography, acted as guide for our diverse group - with members ranging in age from late 20s to early 70s - and kept us moving at a reasonable pace without overtaxing anyone.
He also entertained us with legends of ancient Irish kings and illegal drinking dens and smugglers and shipwrecks.

Based at the Kerry Ocean Lodge in the seaside village of Glenbeigh, the tour took in some of the best of the Kerry Way walks.

Each day we were transported by van to a new section of the Way.

We hiked about 12 kilometres each day, walked along beautiful sandy beaches, watched peat-cutters working in the bogs, passed thundering waterfalls and spotted red deer in the 16,000-hectare Killarney National Park.

We looked in awe at prehistoric stone circles and 2,000-year-old stone forts and walked through the lonely and rugged ice-carved glens of mid-Kerry and subtropical coastal gardens.

We were greeted by Irish hospitality at every turn.

Farmers leaned over the fence to pass the time of day, greeting us like old friends as we chatted about the weather.

Each hike ended at a pub where locals invited us to join them for a drink or a singalong.
It took us 12 days to complete the entire Way, eight with Kingerlee and four on our own.
The most memorable spot we visited was Eagles Hill. At about 500 metres it's one of the highest points on the Way.

Despite starting our day with a full Irish breakfast of bacon, eggs, sausage, fried mushrooms and thick wedges of Irish soda bread covered with lashings of creamy butter, the boggy, steep path sapped our energy and we had to stop about two-thirds of the way up to catch our breath.

As we looked down, Kingerlee pointed out the stone ruins of abandoned farms in the valley and explained that this was a "famine road" used by people - sometimes entire communities - forced to leave the valley during the Potato Famine of the 1840s.
Thinking back to our morning meal, I began to get a sense of the anguish of the starving people who were forced to make this trek to find food, or perhaps a ship to America and a new life.

Roberta Avery is a freelance writer based in Meaford, Ont. Her trip was subsidized by Tourism Ireland and Transat Holidays.

Walking the Kerry Way in southwest Ireland involves some hill climbing, but the views of lakes, mountains and valleys are worth it. Independent hikers are advised to take along maps and compass and know how to use them. The seaside town of Glenbeigh, above, is one of the picturesque towns hikers will see along the Kerry Way. Left, farmer Maurice Breen, 83 loves to talk to visitors and is typical of the warm hospitality of friendly locals who enjoy sharing this beautiful part of Ireland. The seaside town of Glenbeigh, above, is one of the picturesque towns hikers will see along the Kerry Way. Left, farmer Maurice Breen, 83 loves to talk to visitors and is typical of the warm hospitality of friendly locals who enjoy sharing this beautiful part of Ireland.